Manuscript Notebook, stiff card binding, 74pp. used, c.17 items listed per page, description of clothes and materials, and cost, total cost given at the end of each page. Author unidentified, but occasional biographical entries (e.g "Left Ireland/ Bournemouth" (1900), "W. gave me pair of corsets" (1924)), obviously well-to-do and ultimately at least middle-aged (corsets needed in 1924). Sample page (Sept. 1916-Jan/Feb 1917) "Sepr Dressmaker (May) £4/ Hat (black velvet tri-corner & gold ornament 1.10/ Veil 2[s]3[d]/Navy coat Frock 8/8/- 8.15.6/ Nov.
[ Spanish clothing labels; textiles; fashion industry of Spain ]
Spanish. Undated (1920's onwards?). Containing loosely inserted material dating from 1949 and 1962.
The collection consists of more than 2000 labels, laid down on 117pp of a substantial, heavy and thumb-indexed folio volume (38 X 27 X 7 cm), bound in brown cloth. The collection is in good condition, with the inevitable signs of age, in heavily aged and worn binding. Loosely inserted are seven pieces of card and one of paper, carrying around 50 more examples, and three more pieces of paper with sixteen examples of woven coloured ribbon, as well as three enlarged folded grid designs for the weaving of labels.
'By Command of the Army Council' [The War Office, Whitehall; British government publications; Second World War]
The War Office [Whitehall], 2nd February, 1944. ['Notified in A.C.Is.']
 + 15pp., 12mo. Stapled pamphlet. In fair condition, on aged paper, with vertical fold. Divided into 17 sections (including 'Sub-Tropical and Tropical Climates', 'Compensation for Loss or Damage' and 'Weight of Clothing and Equipment'), under the main headings: 'Uniform - Home Service' and 'Method of obtaining Uniform, etc.' Three appendices, including 'List of Uniform Officers are Required to Provide during the Present Emergency' and 'Weights of Principal Items of Officers' Clothing and Equipment'.
E. J. Walker, Victorian garment manufacturer [clothing; fashion industry]
English, late nineteenth century. (Tentatively dated in pencil to 1892.)
Circa 220pp., 8vo, with the main text on rectos, and additions and subheadings (often in red ink), together with some simple pencil patterns, on versos. In ruled exercise book. In good condition, on aged paper, in worn original glazed black cloth binding. The volume has been compiled for his own use by a Victorian factory manager, and contains material relating to clothing for men, women and children. The seventeen entries on the first 41pp.
[Henry James Mitchell, Tailor and Woollen Draper, 32 High Street, Portsmouth; Midshipman Cust; Royal Navy]
Without place or date. Postmark dated 24 April 1837.
1p., 4to. Bifolium. Reverse of second leaf with wax seal, postmark and address to 'Mr. Mitchell | High Street | Portsmouth'. The letter begins: 'Mr Cust wishes Mr Mitchell to send up Master Custs best uniform coat & waistcoat, & if any difference from those he has got the Trowsers; as soon as possible.' He complains that the shirts 'do not sit quite neat about the collar', before listing more requirements: '1 Pewter hand Bason, & cup. | 2 Bars common soap. | 1 Packet Windsor Do. | 2 Pair of Braces | 2 Log Books size for 3 yrs | 1 Watch Bill Book | 2 Bottles of Ink.
[Victorian and Edwardian Ladies' Department Store, 1897-1909; women's fashion; clothing]
Without place, in account book with label of 'Clements, Newling & Co. Stationers & Printers and Account Book Makers &c. 96, Wood St., London, E.C.' Entries dating from between 1897 and 1909.
353pp., small 4to. In brown calf half-binding, with marbled endpapers, and title 'DISSECTING BOOK' in gilt on red leather label on spine. In very good condition, clean and tight, in lightly-worn binding. Neatly written out throughout in the same hand, with pencil running totals added in a second hand.
Sylvia Lynd [née Sylvia Dryhurst] (1888-1952), Anglo-Irish poet, novelist and essayist, wife of the Irish essayist Robert Lynd (1879-1949)
Without place or date. [London, before 1909.]
2pp., 12mo. On bifiolium of ruled paper, with 'HIERATICA' watermark of 'J. S. & Co.' From the Lynd archive, and judging from the handwriting a youthful effort, almost-certainly dating from before Sylvia Dryhurst's marriage to Robert Lynd in 1909. In fair condition, on aged paper. In seven stanzas, the first three giving a taste of an amusing and unusual jeu d'esprit and excellent piece of Edwardian social history: '1) By some devil surely sent | Sandal hunting off I went, | And my footsteps never slowed | Till I reached the Finchley Road. | Chorus: (with fervour) Damn them ! | Damn them !
[Eighteenth-century poem titled 'How to pack a Lady's Portmanteau'; Georgian fashion; Hanoverian dress; clothes; clothing]
Without place or date [late eighteenth century?].
1p., 12mo. On one side of a piece of 18 x 10 cm paper, laid down on leaf removed from commonplace book, with a clue to provenance on the reverse, provided by the part of a family tree of James Carmichael laid down there, including 'Carmichael of Balmedy', 'Tho. Graeme of Balyowan' and 'Mr Ja. Smyth of Aitherny'. Fair, on aged paper. A delightful poem, apparently unpublished, and a valuable piece of social history, containing a couple of manuscript emendations.
Thomas John Dibdin (1771-1841), playwright, illegitimate son of dramatist Charles Dibdin (1745-1814), brother of songwriter Charles Dibdin (1768-1833) [Regency dress; Georgian clothing; fashion]
Undated [circa 1802?].
2pp., 4to. Good, on lightly-aged paper. Divided into eight four-line stanzas, each with the same two-line refrain. The first stanza: 'Fashion was formed when the World began, | And Adam I am told was a very smart man, | As for Eve I shall say nothing more or less. | |But that Ladies of Fashion now copy her dress. | Yet barring all pother of this that & tother we all bow to Fashion in turn'. Containing witty references to the fashion for hunting boots and crops, New Bond Street, Tudor and Stuart clothing, Whigs and Tories.
Williams & Co, Sports & Jeux, Costumes de Sports, Paris [trade catalogue; French sports outfitters; lawn tennis; golf; ephemera]
1923. 1 et 3, Rue Caumartin (Angle du Boulevard de la Madeleine), Paris.
12mo, 72 pp. Stapled. In original printed brown wraps. Good, with mimeographed typed pricelist (4to, 2 pp) loosely inserted. With numerous illustrations. Initial note 'A Notre Clientele', stating that the development of athletic sports in France has added a new branch to French industry, and boasting that the major part of the firm's equipment is made there. Full-page engraving of the company's factory at Levallois-Perret (Seine), with two half-page photographs of staff at work there, and full-page photograph of the firm's Paris shop.