FASHION

[Printed 'album', with programme. ] The exhibition Le Théatre de la Mode in London | Sponsored by the "Continental Daily Mail" | under the auspices of “L'Association Francaise d'Action artistique” | In aid of British and French charities.

Author: 
Chambre Syndicale de la Couture Parisienne, Théâtre de la Mode, 1945-1946 [ Gérard Bauër; Christian Bérard; Jean Saint-Martin; Eliane Bonabel; Rebull; Boris Kochno; Michel de Brunhoff ]
Publication details: 
[ Chambre Syndicale de la Couture Parisienne, Paris. ] 'This album was compiled and produced by Aljanvic Publicité under the supervision of Boris Kochno and printed by l'Imprimerie de Bobigny. Paris, August 1945.'
£400.00

Substantial unpaginated ring-bound 4to volume, with striking coloured cover illustration by Christian Bérard. Internally in fair condition, lightly aged and worn, in worn covers detaching from ring binding. A stylish volume, printed on both shiny art paper and thick rough grey stock. In three sections: 'The Story of this Exhibition'; 'Style in French Art by Gérard Bauër' and 'Twelve Scenes'. Profusely illustrated, including tipped-in plates. Several pages of advertisements for up-market Parisian shops at front and rear.

[ J.M. Barrie ] Original coloured illustrations of Napoleonic costume designs for 1934 production at His Majesty's Theatre, London, of J. M. Barrie's play 'Josephine'

Author: 
[Costume designs for the 1934 production of 'Josephine' by J. M. Barrie, at His Majesty's Theatre, London] [Lady Helen Beerbohm Tree; George Grossmith Jnr; Lyn Harding; Spencer Trevor; Allan Jeayes]
Publication details: 
1934; His Majesty's Theatre, London.
£350.00

Twelve pages of illustrations, each on a separate leaf. Seven are portrait folio, four are portrait 8vo, and one is landscape 8vo. All clear and complete, on aged and creased paper. All coloured in watercolour. The seven folio portraits are: Napoleon as First Consul; Talma; Eugene; Moustache ('Mr. Lyn Harding [(1867-1952)]'); two 'Flunkies'; and Austrian Ambassador ('Mr Spencer Trevor [(1875-1945)]'). The four portrait 8vo illustrations consist of: two of Larose ('Lady Tree [Lady Helen Beerbohm Tree (1858-1937)]'); Louise ('Miss Lemand') and the overcoat of Talma ('Mr.

[ Fashion; Edwardian; Ist WW ] A woman's clothing account (manuscript notebook).

Author: 
Anon.
Publication details: 
1899-1925.
£200.00

Manuscript Notebook, stiff card binding, 74pp. used, c.17 items listed per page, description of clothes and materials, and cost, total cost given at the end of each page. Author unidentified, but occasional biographical entries (e.g "Left Ireland/ Bournemouth" (1900), "W. gave me pair of corsets" (1924)), obviously well-to-do and ultimately at least middle-aged (corsets needed in 1924). Sample page (Sept. 1916-Jan/Feb 1917) "Sepr Dressmaker (May) £4/ Hat (black velvet tri-corner & gold ornament 1.10/ Veil 2[s]3[d]/Navy coat Frock 8/8/- 8.15.6/ Nov.

[ Ciro of Bond Street, London jewellers. ] Four 1930s trade catalogues: 'A Treasury of Pearls & Jewels', 'A Book of New and Exclusive Jewels', 'Exclusive Watches' and 'A Book of New and Exclusive Watches by Ciro - Part 2 - Jewelled Watches'.

Author: 
Ciro of Bond Street, London jewellers, founded in 1917
Publication details: 
'Ciro of Bond Street' [ Ciro, 48 Old Bond Street, London, W.1. ] None of the four dated, but all from the 1930s.
£500.00

The four items date from around the same period, all printed in black and white on shiny art paper, stapled in cream card wraps with simple and elegant titles printed in gold on the front covers. All four are profusely illustrated, with accompanying effusive text. Two have price lists printed in red tipped-in at the end. All four are in fair condition, with pages of text in a good state, and light signs of age and wear to the covers, the two larger items exhibiting slight rolled creasing, and one of them with wear at foot of spine.

[ James Laver, museum curator and authority on fashion. ] Two Autograph Letters Signed (the first 'James Laver | Keeper of Prints') concerning purchases from bookseller Barry Duncan. With carbon copies of two of Duncan's letters.

Author: 
James Laver (1899-1975), art historian and authority on fashion, Keeper of Prints, Drawings and Paintings at the Victoria and Albert Museum, London
Publication details: 
Laver's two letters both on Victoria and Albert Museum letterheads, and dating from 30 December 1947 and 19 March 1948.
£120.00

Five items, in fair condition, on lightly aged and worn paper, with slight rust staining from staple which held them together. Laver's two letters are both 2pp. long (one 8vo and one 12mo). The two relate to a collection of Dalziel wood-engravings, there being 'too many already in the Museum to justify our purchasing the collection in its entirety'. Laver suggests taking a selection of 100 engravings for £5, and with the second letter returns the residue, the price paid being £7 10s 0d. With Laver paying personally for two engravings damaged while in his care.

[ The Spanish textiles industry. ] Manufacturer's sample book, containing in excess of 2000 examples of clothing labels

Author: 
[ Spanish clothing labels; textiles; fashion industry of Spain ]
Publication details: 
Spanish. Undated (1920's onwards?). Containing loosely inserted material dating from 1949 and 1962.
£950.00

The collection consists of more than 2000 labels, laid down on 117pp of a substantial, heavy and thumb-indexed folio volume (38 X 27 X 7 cm), bound in brown cloth. The collection is in good condition, with the inevitable signs of age, in heavily aged and worn binding. Loosely inserted are seven pieces of card and one of paper, carrying around 50 more examples, and three more pieces of paper with sixteen examples of woven coloured ribbon, as well as three enlarged folded grid designs for the weaving of labels.

[ Thomas Elliott, perfumer in Regency London. ] Printed trade card for 'Elliott's Long-Established Repository, and Temple of Fashion, No. 32, Rathbone Place, London, [...]'.

Author: 
Thomas Elliott, perfumer in Regency London [ Temple of Fashion, No. 32, Rathbone Place ]
Publication details: 
Elliott's Temple of Fashion, No. 32, Rathbone Place, London. [ Around the period between 1814 and 1823. ]
£45.00

Printed in black on one side of a piece of 11 x 7 cm card. In fair condition, lightly aged and worn. Text in a mixture of fonts and types characteristic of the period, with royal patent coat of arms. Text reads: 'Elliott's Long-Established Repository, and Temple of Fashion, No. 32, Rathbone Place, London, For Ladies' and Gentlemen's inimitable Head Dresses and Perruques, Patent Exact Imitation of Nature, The Hair appearing as if growing on the Skin, such as will deceive the eye of every Observer; and Ornamental Hair in all its Devices, of the First Fashion.

[ Victorian valentine Card. ] Hand-coloured engraved Victorian valentine card, depicting a young lady in shorts posting a letter, with the caption 'A valentine for my little friend'.

Author: 
[ Victorian valentine card, engraved and hand-coloured ] [ Royal Mail; Post Office; women's fashion ]
Publication details: 
Without date or place. [ London, 1880s? ]
£65.00

On one side of a piece of 14 x 9 cm paper, with embossed design to the scalloped edges. Hand-coloured in yellow, pink, red, purple, grey and plum. A smiling young girl, blonde-haird and rosy cheeks, in gentleman's hat, muffler, plum velvet jacket, purple shorts and red tights, stands on the pavement, looking smiling at the viewer as she posts a letter with a red wax seal into a box marked 'Post Office' and 'London 12'. The caption at the foot reads: 'A VALENTINE | FOR MY LITTLE FRIEND'.

[Printed pamphlet.] Éloge du Luxe Effréné des Femmes. Extraits des legendes de J. T. de Saint-Germain. [In two sections: 'De la mode' and 'Du Luxe et du travail'.]

Author: 
'J. T. de Saint-Germain' [pseudonym of Jules-Romain Tardieu (1805-1868)]
Publication details: 
Paris: Jules Tardieu, Éditeur, 13, Rue de Tournon, 13. [1865.]
£120.00

[2] + 12pp., 16mo. In good condition, lightly-aged, disbound. A tastefully-printed little production, well laid-out with vignettes. In two parts: the first, titled 'De la mode' (pp.1-), an 'Extrait de la Veilleuse, Légende'; the second, titled 'Du Luxe et du travail' (pp.6-12), an 'Extrait de l'Art d'etre malheureux, Légende'. On reverse of title is a page of 'Ouvrages de J. T. de Saint-Germain'. Only copy on COPAC at the British Library. Copy in the Bibliothèque Nationale, whose entry dates the item to 1865.

[Georgian London.] Two lithographic engravings: companion pieces both headed 'Casualties of London Street Walking', and titled 'A Faint Impression' and 'A Strong Impression', showing the fine clothes of fashionable figures sullied by street hawkers.

Author: 
S. & J. Fuller, printsellers, 34 Rathbone Place, London [English social history; Georgian fashion; Regency London]
Publication details: 
Both engravings published on 2 October 1826 by S. & J. Fuller, 34 Rathbone Place, London.
£240.00

The two engravings in good condition, with light signs of age, and with 'A Faint Impression' with some offsetting in light pink (not entirely displeasing). Both headed above the image 'Casualties of London Street Walking', with the title and publication details below the image. ONE: 'A Faint Impression.' Dimensions: image, 23.5 x 18.5 cm; plate, 27 x 20 cm; paper, 29 x 22 cm.

[Printed book.] A History of Feminine Fashion. [Mainly devoted to the house of ' the Father of Haute Couture', the English-born Paris fashion designer Charles Frederick Worth.]

Author: 
[Charles Frederick Worth (1825-1895), English-born Parisian fashion designer considered ' the Father of Haute Couture'; Ed. J. Burrow & Co., Ltd., London and Cheltenham]
Publication details: 
Printed and produced by Ed. J. Burrow & Co., Ltd., 109, Kingsway, London, W.C.2 and Cheltenham. No year [1928].
£56.00

[16] + 74 + [4]pp., 4to. Erratum slip. Printed on art paper, with numerous black and white photographic illustrations. In brown buckram quarter-binding, with paper boards printed in red and blue. Internally in fair condition, lightly aged and worn, with a leaf of advertisements lacking at the rear; in aged and worn binding.

[Victorian garment manufacture.] Manuscript volume ('E. J. Walker | Notes Private | A. P. M.') covering all aspects of the Victorian garment industry, with costings, tables of sizings and prices, records of wages, patterns

Author: 
E. J. Walker, Victorian garment manufacturer [clothing; fashion industry]
Publication details: 
English, late nineteenth century. (Tentatively dated in pencil to 1892.)
£450.00

Circa 220pp., 8vo, with the main text on rectos, and additions and subheadings (often in red ink), together with some simple pencil patterns, on versos. In ruled exercise book. In good condition, on aged paper, in worn original glazed black cloth binding. The volume has been compiled for his own use by a Victorian factory manager, and contains material relating to clothing for men, women and children. The seventeen entries on the first 41pp.

[Henry James Mitchell, naval tailor of Portsmouth.] Autograph Letter to him, in the third person, by 'Mr Cust', giving instructions for 'Master Custs best uniform' and other requirements as midshipman.

Author: 
[Henry James Mitchell, Tailor and Woollen Draper, 32 High Street, Portsmouth; Midshipman Cust; Royal Navy]
Publication details: 
Without place or date. Postmark dated 24 April 1837.
£65.00

1p., 4to. Bifolium. Reverse of second leaf with wax seal, postmark and address to 'Mr. Mitchell | High Street | Portsmouth'. The letter begins: 'Mr Cust wishes Mr Mitchell to send up Master Custs best uniform coat & waistcoat, & if any difference from those he has got the Trowsers; as soon as possible.' He complains that the shirts 'do not sit quite neat about the collar', before listing more requirements: '1 Pewter hand Bason, & cup. | 2 Bars common soap. | 1 Packet Windsor Do. | 2 Pair of Braces | 2 Log Books size for 3 yrs | 1 Watch Bill Book | 2 Bottles of Ink.

Autograph Note, Third Person, "Lady Harington begs [...]" to Messrs Griffiths and Crick, Chandos Street [silk mercers to the Queen and the Royal Family - Kelly's]

Author: 
Lady Harrington [Maria Foote, actress]
Publication details: 
No place or date ("Monday morning")
£65.00

Two pages, 16mo, bifolium, fold marks,stab holes without loss of more than a letter oftext, mainly good condition. "Lady Harington begs Messrs Griffith[s] and Crick will send, as soon after eleven o'clock as they can, the Black Italian net [which excised] for dresses with painted Flowers on it, which she saw at their shop a few days since - likewise the price of it by the yard, or dress."

Unpublished youthful autograph poem by Sylvia Lynd [née Sylvia Dryhurst], dealing in a humorous style with the perils of buying footwear in Edwardian Finchley, North London, beginning: 'By some devil surely sent | Sandal hunting off I went'.

Author: 
Sylvia Lynd [née Sylvia Dryhurst] (1888-1952), Anglo-Irish poet, novelist and essayist, wife of the Irish essayist Robert Lynd (1879-1949)
Publication details: 
Without place or date. [London, before 1909.]
£135.00

2pp., 12mo. On bifiolium of ruled paper, with 'HIERATICA' watermark of 'J. S. & Co.' From the Lynd archive, and judging from the handwriting a youthful effort, almost-certainly dating from before Sylvia Dryhurst's marriage to Robert Lynd in 1909. In fair condition, on aged paper. In seven stanzas, the first three giving a taste of an amusing and unusual jeu d'esprit and excellent piece of Edwardian social history: '1) By some devil surely sent | Sandal hunting off I went, | And my footsteps never slowed | Till I reached the Finchley Road. | Chorus: (with fervour) Damn them ! | Damn them !

Two Autograph Inventories by Elizabeth Collingwood, the first an 'Account of plate and other Things taken from Little Ryle to Acton in 1732', the second 'What my Close comes two that I by [buy] new at newcastle'.

Author: 
[Elizabeth Collingwood, daughter or daughter-in-law of Alexander Collingwood (d.1761) of LIttle Ryle, Whittingham, High Sheriff of Northumberland]
Publication details: 
Both from Little Ryle, Whittingham, Northumberland, on 12 June 1732.
£120.00

Both items in good condition, dusty on lightly-aged paper. ONE: Headed 'Little Ryle June the 12 1732 | an account of what my plate come two that I take with me from ye house'. Docketed on the reverse: 'Account of Plate and other Things taken from Little Ryle to Acton in 1732. by Elizabeth Collingwood'. 1p., folio. Twenty-one items, beginning with 'for my Coffie pote fourteen pound ten shillings' and ending with 'for six brickfast [sic] plates of nine shillings | in all eight pounds eleven shillings'.?>

Attractive and colourful 1930s scrapbook, compiled by G. H. Manchester of Ashton-under-Lyne, mainly devoted to motoring, but with pages of footballers, boxers, cricketers, tennis players, aircraft, film and radio stars, pretty girls, dandies.

Author: 
[Geoffrey H. Manchester of Ashton-under-Lyne; 1930s scrapbook; motoring; transport; motor sports; football; Hollywood stars]
Publication details: 
Mostly compiled between 1934 and 1937, with a few pages at the end from the 1950s and 1980s.
£160.00

Several hundred images (most illustrations rather than photographs and most in colour), many carefully cut out, all laid down on 68pp. in an album made up from a ruled exercise book roughly 20 x 16 cm, including three fold-outs (the first, beneath a decorative flap that reads 'Birds Unfeathered | Worth A Bit Of Study', carrying eight 1930s illustrations women in underwear). The album has been attractively customised with printed illustrations of motor racing over board covers.

[Victorian satire in form of mock Act of Parliament.] Cap. CCXXXVIII. An Act for the Reform and Regulation of Female Apparel and to Amend and Refrenate the Customs relating to Crinoline and other Artificial Superfluities and the Profusion thereof.

Publication details: 
'This proposed Act is Published by WILLIAM CONEY, 61, Wardour St., Oxford St., London and Sold by all Booksellers. [Session 1859]
£220.00

4pp., folio. Bifolium. On worn and aged paper. Nicely printed, with royal crest at head of first page, above the words 'ANNO VICESIMO SECUNDO & VICESIMO TERTIO | VICTORIAE REGINAE.' The full title reads: 'An Act for the Reform and Regulation of Female Apparel and to Amend and Refrenate the Customs relating to Crinoline and other Artificial Superfluities and the Profusion thereof, with the Powers, Provisions, Clauses, Regulations and Directions, Fines, Forfeitures and Penalties to be observed, applied, practised and put in execution for securing the proper observance of the same.

Anonymous eighteenth-century Manuscript Poem titled 'How to pack a Lady's Portmanteau', with verse postscript, 'How to do a Gentlemans D[itt]o'.

Author: 
[Eighteenth-century poem titled 'How to pack a Lady's Portmanteau'; Georgian fashion; Hanoverian dress; clothes; clothing]
Publication details: 
Without place or date [late eighteenth century?].
£280.00

1p., 12mo. On one side of a piece of 18 x 10 cm paper, laid down on leaf removed from commonplace book, with a clue to provenance on the reverse, provided by the part of a family tree of James Carmichael laid down there, including 'Carmichael of Balmedy', 'Tho. Graeme of Balyowan' and 'Mr Ja. Smyth of Aitherny'. Fair, on aged paper. A delightful poem, apparently unpublished, and a valuable piece of social history, containing a couple of manuscript emendations.

Manuscript of humorous poem 'The Chapter of Fashions | Written by T Dibdin' [Thomas John Dibdin], on the history of clothing and Regency dress, with variations from the printed versions, including an extra stanza.

Author: 
Thomas John Dibdin (1771-1841), playwright, illegitimate son of dramatist Charles Dibdin (1745-1814), brother of songwriter Charles Dibdin (1768-1833) [Regency dress; Georgian clothing; fashion]
Publication details: 
Undated [circa 1802?].
£350.00

2pp., 4to. Good, on lightly-aged paper. Divided into eight four-line stanzas, each with the same two-line refrain. The first stanza: 'Fashion was formed when the World began, | And Adam I am told was a very smart man, | As for Eve I shall say nothing more or less. | |But that Ladies of Fashion now copy her dress. | Yet barring all pother of this that & tother we all bow to Fashion in turn'. Containing witty references to the fashion for hunting boots and crops, New Bond Street, Tudor and Stuart clothing, Whigs and Tories.

Autograph Letter in the third person from Henry Edward Manning, Archdeacon of Chichester, later Cardinal Manning, giving instruction to his tailors, Messrs John Stulz and Samuel Housley of Clifford Street, London.

Author: 
Henry Edward Manning (1808-1892), Archdeacon of Chichester in the established church, and Roman Catholic Cardinal Archbishop of Westminster [John Lavicount Anderdon (1792-1874); Stulz & Housley]
Cardinal Manning
Publication details: 
11 October 1843; Lavington.
£130.00
Cardinal Manning

12mo, 1 p. Text clear and complete. On aged and creased paper. As 'Archdeacon Manning was unable to call in Clifford street' on the previous Saturday, he would like 'Messrs Stulz to finish his frock coat, & to send it to 22 Tavistock Square, not to be forwarded.' The address was the home of Manning's brother-in-law John Lavicount Anderdon.

Elegant ink drawings of fashionable young ladies, said to be unused illustrations by Edward Burney for his cousin Fanny Burney's 'Evelina'.

Author: 
Edward Burney (1760-1848), English artist, and cousin to the novelist Fanny Burney (1752-1840)
Edward Burney (1760-1848), English artist
Publication details: 
The first page of three drawings, young women posed separately,is dated in a contemporary hand '1815-16' and the other page, with four interacting figures is dated '1816-17'.
£1,200.00
Edward Burney (1760-1848), English artist

In good condition, on lightly-aged paper. Dimensions are approximate. The three illustrations (1815-6), each 8.5 x 4 cm, form three panels on a 10 x 13.5 cm piece of paper.

Illustrated trade catalogue for the Parisian sports outfitters Williams & Co. With supplementary price list.

Author: 
Williams & Co, Sports & Jeux, Costumes de Sports, Paris [trade catalogue; French sports outfitters; lawn tennis; golf; ephemera]
Publication details: 
1923. 1 et 3, Rue Caumartin (Angle du Boulevard de la Madeleine), Paris.
£56.00

12mo, 72 pp. Stapled. In original printed brown wraps. Good, with mimeographed typed pricelist (4to, 2 pp) loosely inserted. With numerous illustrations. Initial note 'A Notre Clientele', stating that the development of athletic sports in France has added a new branch to French industry, and boasting that the major part of the firm's equipment is made there. Full-page engraving of the company's factory at Levallois-Perret (Seine), with two half-page photographs of staff at work there, and full-page photograph of the firm's Paris shop.

The Rival Houses of the Hobbs and Dobbs: or, Dress-Makers & Dress-Wearers. By Crotchet Crayon.

Author: 
Crotchet Crayon' [Victorian fashion; nineteenth century satire]
Publication details: 
New Edition. London: G. Routledge & Co., Farringdon Street. New York: 18, Beekman Street. 1857. [London: Savill and Edwards, Printers, Chandos Street.]
£75.00

12mo, [ii] + 235 pp. In contemporary brown-calf half-binding, with marbled boards and grey endpapers. Internally sound and tight, if a little foxed, with some wear to the extremities of the title-leaf. In worn binding with label on spine mostly worn away. The identity of the author is unknown.

one typed letter signed to Lt Col. R. F. H. Drake-Brockman,

Author: 
Laura Ashley
Publication details: 
23 February 1964, Carno, Montgomeryshire, on letterhead of Ashley, Mountney Limited.
£30.00

Fashion designer (1925-85). One page, 4to, with letterhead in black and light blue redolent of the nineteen-sixties. "Dear Sir, / Thank you for your letter of February 14th. We are most interested to hear of your connection with the election poster and I am enclosing it herewith since we have ourselves finished with it and it will no doubt be of interest to your family." Minor creasing, but otherwise in good condition.

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