FASHION

A nice piece of Edwardian trade ephemera. It would appear that W. B. Corsets were running a franchise scheme, providing suppliers with their catalogue and printing the franchisee's name on the back cover: little is to be discovered about either firm. No other copy traced. Hard to date: the corsets have an Edwardian feel, but some features of the illustrations may suggest a slightly later date. A 12mo stapled pamphlet, consisting of 20 pages on ten leaves of shiny paper: unnumbered front and back leaves, and pages on central eight leaves numbered 1-16.

An interesting range of content. See her entry in the Oxford DNB. The recipient Philip Dosse was proprietor of Hansom Books, publisher of a stable of seven arts magazines including Books and Bookmen and Plays and Players. See ?Death of a Bookman? by the novelist Sally Emerson (editor of ?Books and Bookmen? at the time of Dosse?s suicide), in Standpoint magazine, October 2018. The letter, with her printed letterhead, is somewhat worn and creased, the other four items are in good condition. Three items (including the letter) signed ?Doris Moore? and one ?DLM?.

An excellent bold and sprawling signature ‘Heather Thatcher’ at the end of a carbon typescript of a 1920s article from an unascertained source, with a few minor corrections in pencil. 3pp, 4to. Fifty-nine lines of text, on three leaves attached with a slightly rusty paperclip. In fair condition, lightly aged and creased. Begins: ‘ “Luckily, fashion for this autumn and winter are going to be varied; so every woman will be able to find something to suit her own particular type,” said lovely Heather Thatcher when she was showing me some of her new autumn dresses.

Booklet, stabbed (thread through two holes at (spine) edge), chipped at one corner, sl. grubby wraps (with title), small closed tears on back wrap. A crude production with decent charicatures. It comprises: title and seven caricatures illustrating the comic effects of having a giraffe-style hairdo. See images (should have used flash!). No other copy traced yet(WorldCat etc) but the Brighton Pavilion Collections provided an image of one of the caricatures to the only site which appears to refer to this booklet, and claiming after watercolours by Chalon.

A scarce item, and considering its perforation, fortunately found in its complete state. No copy on OCLC WorldCat, which does however have entries for copies of similar Liberty's 1910 ('SERIES XXXIII') and 1913 catalogues, the latter at the Museum of Fine Arts, Boston. 64pp, 8vo. Stitched into oat-coloured cloth soft covers, with decorative border and title printed on front cover. In fair internal condition: on lightly aged and spotted paper. In worn and stained wraps. The five pages of text and fifty-nine full-page illustrations are printed in brown on cream paper.

A total of twenty-eight items of correspondence, comprising: nineteen Autograph Letters Signed (two on the backs of cards), two Typed Letters Signed, and seven Autograph Cards Signed. In good condition. All signed 'Mary', and the large part addressed to 'Christopher', with a few to 'Kit' and one to 'Dear Phyl [i.e. Fry's wife Phyllis], dear Christopher'. The correspondence indicates a deep affection and long-standing intimacy.

Vertès won two Oscars for his work on John Huston's 1952 biography of Toulouse-Lautrec, 'Moulin Rouge': Best Art Direction (with Paul Sheriff) and Best Costume Design. The second of the present two items is an article Ede had invited Vertès to write on his role in the film; the first is the covering letter with which it was sent. ONE: Autograph Letter Signed to 'Cher M. Ede'. 4 January 1954. 2pp., 8vo. In good condition, lightly aged and worn. He is enclosing 'le petit texte', which he hopes will be to Ede's taste.

Substantial unpaginated ring-bound 4to volume, with striking coloured cover illustration by Christian Bérard. Internally in fair condition, lightly aged and worn, in worn covers detaching from ring binding. A stylish volume, printed on both shiny art paper and thick rough grey stock. In three sections: 'The Story of this Exhibition'; 'Style in French Art by Gérard Bauër' and 'Twelve Scenes'. Profusely illustrated, including tipped-in plates. Several pages of advertisements for up-market Parisian shops at front and rear.

Twelve pages of illustrations, each on a separate leaf. Seven are portrait folio, four are portrait 8vo, and one is landscape 8vo. All clear and complete, on aged and creased paper. All coloured in watercolour. The seven folio portraits are: Napoleon as First Consul; Talma; Eugene; Moustache ('Mr. Lyn Harding [(1867-1952)]'); two 'Flunkies'; and Austrian Ambassador ('Mr Spencer Trevor [(1875-1945)]'). The four portrait 8vo illustrations consist of: two of Larose ('Lady Tree [Lady Helen Beerbohm Tree (1858-1937)]'); Louise ('Miss Lemand') and the overcoat of Talma ('Mr.

Manuscript Notebook, stiff card binding, 74pp. used, c.17 items listed per page, description of clothes and materials, and cost, total cost given at the end of each page. Author unidentified, but occasional biographical entries (e.g "Left Ireland/ Bournemouth" (1900), "W. gave me pair of corsets" (1924)), obviously well-to-do and ultimately at least middle-aged (corsets needed in 1924). Sample page (Sept. 1916-Jan/Feb 1917) "Sepr Dressmaker (May) £4/ Hat (black velvet tri-corner & gold ornament 1.10/ Veil 2[s]3[d]/Navy coat Frock 8/8/- 8.15.6/ Nov.

The four items date from around the same period, all printed in black and white on shiny art paper, stapled in cream card wraps with simple and elegant titles printed in gold on the front covers. All four are profusely illustrated, with accompanying effusive text. Two have price lists printed in red tipped-in at the end. All four are in fair condition, with pages of text in a good state, and light signs of age and wear to the covers, the two larger items exhibiting slight rolled creasing, and one of them with wear at foot of spine.

Five items, in fair condition, on lightly aged and worn paper, with slight rust staining from staple which held them together. Laver's two letters are both 2pp. long (one 8vo and one 12mo). The two relate to a collection of Dalziel wood-engravings, there being 'too many already in the Museum to justify our purchasing the collection in its entirety'. Laver suggests taking a selection of 100 engravings for £5, and with the second letter returns the residue, the price paid being £7 10s 0d. With Laver paying personally for two engravings damaged while in his care.

The collection consists of more than 2000 labels, laid down on 117pp of a substantial, heavy and thumb-indexed folio volume (38 X 27 X 7 cm), bound in brown cloth. The collection is in good condition, with the inevitable signs of age, in heavily aged and worn binding. Loosely inserted are seven pieces of card and one of paper, carrying around 50 more examples, and three more pieces of paper with sixteen examples of woven coloured ribbon, as well as three enlarged folded grid designs for the weaving of labels.

On one side of a piece of 14 x 9 cm paper, with embossed design to the scalloped edges. Hand-coloured in yellow, pink, red, purple, grey and plum. A smiling young girl, blonde-haird and rosy cheeks, in gentleman's hat, muffler, plum velvet jacket, purple shorts and red tights, stands on the pavement, looking smiling at the viewer as she posts a letter with a red wax seal into a box marked 'Post Office' and 'London 12'. The caption at the foot reads: 'A VALENTINE | FOR MY LITTLE FRIEND'.

The two engravings in good condition, with light signs of age, and with 'A Faint Impression' with some offsetting in light pink (not entirely displeasing). Both headed above the image 'Casualties of London Street Walking', with the title and publication details below the image. ONE: 'A Faint Impression.' Dimensions: image, 23.5 x 18.5 cm; plate, 27 x 20 cm; paper, 29 x 22 cm.

[16] + 74 + [4]pp., 4to. Erratum slip. Printed on art paper, with numerous black and white photographic illustrations. In brown buckram quarter-binding, with paper boards printed in red and blue. Internally in fair condition, lightly aged and worn, with a leaf of advertisements lacking at the rear; in aged and worn binding.

Circa 220pp., 8vo, with the main text on rectos, and additions and subheadings (often in red ink), together with some simple pencil patterns, on versos. In ruled exercise book. In good condition, on aged paper, in worn original glazed black cloth binding. The volume has been compiled for his own use by a Victorian factory manager, and contains material relating to clothing for men, women and children. The seventeen entries on the first 41pp.

1p., 4to. Bifolium. Reverse of second leaf with wax seal, postmark and address to 'Mr. Mitchell | High Street | Portsmouth'. The letter begins: 'Mr Cust wishes Mr Mitchell to send up Master Custs best uniform coat & waistcoat, & if any difference from those he has got the Trowsers; as soon as possible.' He complains that the shirts 'do not sit quite neat about the collar', before listing more requirements: '1 Pewter hand Bason, & cup. | 2 Bars common soap. | 1 Packet Windsor Do. | 2 Pair of Braces | 2 Log Books size for 3 yrs | 1 Watch Bill Book | 2 Bottles of Ink.

Two pages, 16mo, bifolium, fold marks,stab holes without loss of more than a letter oftext, mainly good condition. "Lady Harington begs Messrs Griffith[s] and Crick will send, as soon after eleven o'clock as they can, the Black Italian net [which excised] for dresses with painted Flowers on it, which she saw at their shop a few days since - likewise the price of it by the yard, or dress."

2pp., 12mo. On bifiolium of ruled paper, with 'HIERATICA' watermark of 'J. S. & Co.' From the Lynd archive, and judging from the handwriting a youthful effort, almost-certainly dating from before Sylvia Dryhurst's marriage to Robert Lynd in 1909. In fair condition, on aged paper. In seven stanzas, the first three giving a taste of an amusing and unusual jeu d'esprit and excellent piece of Edwardian social history: '1) By some devil surely sent | Sandal hunting off I went, | And my footsteps never slowed | Till I reached the Finchley Road. | Chorus: (with fervour) Damn them ! | Damn them !

Several hundred images (most illustrations rather than photographs and most in colour), many carefully cut out, all laid down on 68pp. in an album made up from a ruled exercise book roughly 20 x 16 cm, including three fold-outs (the first, beneath a decorative flap that reads 'Birds Unfeathered | Worth A Bit Of Study', carrying eight 1930s illustrations women in underwear). The album has been attractively customised with printed illustrations of motor racing over board covers.

4pp., folio. Bifolium. On worn and aged paper. Nicely printed, with royal crest at head of first page, above the words 'ANNO VICESIMO SECUNDO & VICESIMO TERTIO | VICTORIAE REGINAE.' The full title reads: 'An Act for the Reform and Regulation of Female Apparel and to Amend and Refrenate the Customs relating to Crinoline and other Artificial Superfluities and the Profusion thereof, with the Powers, Provisions, Clauses, Regulations and Directions, Fines, Forfeitures and Penalties to be observed, applied, practised and put in execution for securing the proper observance of the same.

1p., 12mo. On one side of a piece of 18 x 10 cm paper, laid down on leaf removed from commonplace book, with a clue to provenance on the reverse, provided by the part of a family tree of James Carmichael laid down there, including 'Carmichael of Balmedy', 'Tho. Graeme of Balyowan' and 'Mr Ja. Smyth of Aitherny'. Fair, on aged paper. A delightful poem, apparently unpublished, and a valuable piece of social history, containing a couple of manuscript emendations.

2pp., 4to. Good, on lightly-aged paper. Divided into eight four-line stanzas, each with the same two-line refrain. The first stanza: 'Fashion was formed when the World began, | And Adam I am told was a very smart man, | As for Eve I shall say nothing more or less. | |But that Ladies of Fashion now copy her dress. | Yet barring all pother of this that & tother we all bow to Fashion in turn'. Containing witty references to the fashion for hunting boots and crops, New Bond Street, Tudor and Stuart clothing, Whigs and Tories.

12mo, 1 p. Text clear and complete. On aged and creased paper. As 'Archdeacon Manning was unable to call in Clifford street' on the previous Saturday, he would like 'Messrs Stulz to finish his frock coat, & to send it to 22 Tavistock Square, not to be forwarded.' The address was the home of Manning's brother-in-law John Lavicount Anderdon.

In good condition, on lightly-aged paper. Dimensions are approximate. The three illustrations (1815-6), each 8.5 x 4 cm, form three panels on a 10 x 13.5 cm piece of paper.

12mo, [ii] + 235 pp. In contemporary brown-calf half-binding, with marbled boards and grey endpapers. Internally sound and tight, if a little foxed, with some wear to the extremities of the title-leaf. In worn binding with label on spine mostly worn away. The identity of the author is unknown.